I haven't been to Bangkok in 10 years, and oh my gosh have things changed! I've had quite a few bad experiences in Thailand over the years, including a local on the gulf islands who pulled a macheti out at me and whacked it passed my head, straight into a wooden beam to the side of me and said 'pay him' ... referring to a taxi driver who was blatantly trying to rip me off. Of course in my enraged youth, me throwing the Thai baht onto the floor during that incidence didn't help, for with that I insulted their revered king and royal family.
Well ... wasn't I shocked to find out that the chauffer who had picked me up at the airport in a big limousine ... had absolutely nothing nice to say about the royal family. And the long monologue got started without me even instigating it! He was a Red Shirt who was all anti-monarchy and was willing to protest, albeit in a peaceful way, until the monarchy was ousted. And it seemed like he wasn't the only one with such ideas, for on that Saturday, there was a massive protest by the royal palace, of all the Red Shirts.
I'm not one to delve into politics, but as far as I understand it there are the Yellow Shirts, who are the monarchists, and supporters of the current royal family, and then there are the Red Shirts who want the monarchy to be abolished. And in there lies the problem!
Anyhow, you can imagine my surprise that a decade ago I had a knife pulled out on me for I insulted the royal family, amongst other things ... and today I had this driver who was lecturing me very vocally on all the evils of todays royal family. I have to say that I was a bit shocked.
Things have definitely changed a lot in Bangkok!
It has also cleaned up a lot. No, the sleaze is still here. The frantic energy is still here. And the sidewalks, after 10 years, are still being renovated and are a mess. Locals are ALL-ways trying to sell you something. But the city is cleaner, a bit greener, and could it be just slightly less hectic? Actually, I take the last statement back ... after 3 days ... I can attest it's just as chaotic as before.
The vibe though is much nicer than I recall it. The rich Thai Buddhist culture and history are still preserved, and the Thai food ... I don't know if there is any cuisine better than that. Economically you can also see that the capital has prospered. Many new developments are being built, including a lot of improved infrastructural work.
Bangkok is still mayhem though ... and we love it for that.
After a wonderful long weekend in the Siamese capital though, I'm more than happy to return to organized and functional Singapore.
HOW TO GET HERE:
There are only two things to mention here: 1) make sure you don't need a visa (as a Slovenian I do, as a Canadian I don't) and; 2) before you pay a full-fare air-ticket, check out the myriad of Asian discount airlines that fly here. From Tiger Airways, to Air-Asia, etc ... the possibilities are boundless.
MOVING AROUND:
Bangkok is one of those places where getting around always involves haggling. Every time you step into a mode of transportation, you have to negotiate in advance ... otherwise you will be ripped off. So get ready :-)
> tuk-tuks: a must experience in Bangkok. You'll do it once ... and never again! It's fun zig-zagging through the heavy traffic with your own crazy driver, however, after 20 minutes of inhaling the polluted air ... you will have had enough. Actually, for me it's my contacts that gave it away ... they dry up so fast with all the smog, that my poor eyes just couldn't take it anymore. And be careful of all the scams ... especially drivers that will try and sell you 'one stop' ... at a jewelry store or something similar, where they will get a hefty commission. And bargain, bargain, bargain!
> taxis: are plentiful, just demand that they use the meter.
> Sky Train - MRT: very cheap and very convenient, if you have a station close to where you're going. Plus with the Sky Train you get to see Bangkok elevated from the ground ... even greater chaos :-)
WHAT TO DO:
> Royal Grand Palace: You cannot come to Bangkok without seeing the Royal Palace. Established in 1782, and covering 218,00 square metres, the palace houses the royal residences, throne halls, several government offices and the renowned Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Make sure you come here early for it gets very hot during the day, plus the crowds come in bus-loads. And make sure you actually see the Emerald Buddha. I walked into the temple where it's housed and totally missed it ... for it was so small. Had to enter it again after I just realized that I must have walked right passed it!
> Wat Pho: adjacent to the Royal Grand Palace, this is the temple that houses the giant reclining buddha ... measuring 150 feet long and 50 feet high. When you see the gold-leaf buddha inside the temple, you can't help but think that it has grown into its space, for its sheer size pretty much takes over every square inch of space inside the temple. Don't forget to look at the soles of his feet, which are beautifully adorned with mother-of-pearl.
> Wat Arun: from Wat Pho, you cross the river by ferry and enter Wat Arun. The first thing I noticed was how much quieter it was than the Grand Palace, which had throngs of tourists. Wat Arun I had pretty much to myself! Wat Arun, or the Temple of Dawn as it is also known, soars 343 feet into the air, and what makes it special is that you can climb up the very steep stairs to about two thirds of the central prang for a grand view of Bangkok.
> Boat ride down the river: going down the river by ferry is a great way to experience the hustle and bustle of this very dynamic capitol. You can rent a long-boat to have more of a private tour, or catch one of the white ferries that make their way down the river stopping at various stations.
> Patpong: you know you have to see this. Sleaze, disgust, cheap, sad, the worst of the worse, anything goes and more ... there's no point in even trying to describe this well-known area of Bangkok. I guarantee you this sex-charged neighbourhood will leave you with an impression ... somehow bringing together all the worse human traits in a small maze of narrow streets! The big, fat old European male tourists certainly looked like they were having fun!
> Jim Thomson Thai House Museum: I never actually heard of Jim Thomson till I moved to Asia ... and saw his trademark stores in all the major cities. He was an American that moved to Thailand after WWII and fell in love with the country, the culture and its silk trade. He did a lot to raise the profile of hand-woven Thai silk ... but what he is really remembered for ... is the mystery surrounding his disappearance for he simply vanished in Cameron Highlands in Malaysia in 1967 ... and was never to be found again. His home is a rather small compound of 6 traditional Thai houses that he re-assembled in Bangkok. The setting is very lush, and although not extravagant, you could see by the way he decorated his home ... that this man had taste. Amongst several interesting artifacts in the museum there is also a mouse-house. It is the predecessor of the TV. Originating in China, kids would put a mouse into this play-house, and watch it climb up and down the various rooms and floors. Cheap entertainment :-)
> Chatujak Market: fantastic market open every weekend. Albeit, a very typical Asian market ... what makes it stand apart is that it's huge! So what can you find: furniture, clothes, food, cats/dogs and any other pet animal imagineable, art, glass, trinkets, porcelain, dinnerware ... and you name it!
> Spa Botanica @ the Sukhothai Hotel: I love spas ... and this one was brilliant! 90 minute massage, 60 minute facial ... in a tranquil oasis ... and you're back to being 100%!
HOTELS:
One thing you can be assured of, there is no lack of 5-star (and less star) hotels in Bangkok.
> Sukhothai Hotel: is a grand old hotel, an oasis in Bangkok's dense chaos. This low-rise hotel is done in a classical Thai style, with wooden ornate roofs and a tranquil entrance. The suites are very spacious and luxuriously decorated with Thai silk. Great place to unwind from the chaotic pace of this city.
> Banyan Tree Hotel: Right next to the Sukothai is this 62-storey highrise that houses the all-suites Banyan Tree Hotel. There is a beautiful spa on the 21st floor.
> Metropolitan Hotel and right next to the Banyan Tree is the Metropolitan Hotel. This is a boutique hotel ... very modern, well designed, minimalist.
RESTAURANTS:
> Celadon @ the Sukhothai Hotel: exquisite Thai restaurant! We took a seven course set-menu which was just delicious. Combine that with a lively Thai atmosphere and decor and you've got a great evening. Pricey, but worth each baht.
> Vertigo Restaurant @ the Banyan Tree Hotel: located on the rooftop (62nd floor) of the Banyan Tree Hotel, the view from up there is without doubt the finest in Bangkok. When we came to our table, we were marveling how you're literally sitting on the rooftop of the hotel, that was designed in a multi-layered way. There's a magnificent bar on one side and tables on the other. Below you ... the sprawling city bejeweled in lights. Sitting at your table, you're exposed to the elements from all sides and the tables are pretty much at the edge of the building. Robin and I were discussing how we've never seen such a restaurant anywhere in the world ... perhaps also due to strict safety regulations in many countries. As we're sipping our wine and chatting, I can't help but notice the long hair of a woman several tables down just fluttering in the air. Then I see napkins flying, table-clothes lifting ... and then we feel the massive gust of air. A thunder storm approaching. Suddenly several waiters are ushering us down several floors, into the back-up restaurant below, while others were quickly clearing the rooftop. This is what I mean by being exposed. I can just see how wine glasses would just fly off the side of the building!
> Cyan Restaurant at the Metropolitan: didn't go here because it's a Mediterranean restaurant, and given that we were in Bangkok for 3 days, and I come from the Mediterranean, I didn't feel like eating here. Nevertheless, every guide book I read praised this restaurant. And the decor does look great!
Bojan Tercon
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