Departing Siem Reap I realized that it's the Khmer people that make Cambodia so special. There is a pureness and genuiness in them that you don't see anymore in countries like Thailand and India. They are full of smiles, always happy to talk to you, helpful and what impressed me the most, they never wanted something in return. Of course they were happy to receive a tip, who wouldn't be, but if you gave them nothing, the beautiful smile didn't suddenly get wiped off their face like it often happens in Thailand.
Cambodia has had a turbulent history. Who hasn't read of all the atrocities of Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot in the 70's. Yet through all these hardships and poverty, they still seem to plough on with a positive attitude, which I absolutely adore. The kingdom of Cambodia used to expand well into most of what is today Thailand and southern Vietnam. Yet over the centuries, one way or another they have lost this land to their neighbouring countries, which has more often than not caused hardship and tension, especially with neighbouring Thailand.
And then there were the colonial days. France ruled over Cambodia for nearly 90 years, finally pulling out in 1953. Still today you will often see signage in French, especially on public and governmental buildings. And 'thanks' to the French, you can get wonderful baguettes and other French pattiseries in the big cities :-)
The major ethnic group in Cambodia are the Khmer people. So Khmer Rouge I learnt were the 'red' Khmer's, indicating that they were communists. Although Phnom Penh is the political capital of Cambodia, it's Siem Reap which is the main tourist city. This is of course due to Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples which are located in Siem Reap's vicinity, as well as Tonle Sap lake. Ironic enough, Siem Reap literally translates into 'Siamese defeated'. This in itself tells you a lot about the Khmer's feelings for their western neighbours.
Driving from the airport I quickly realized that Siem Reap was not exactly as I had envisioned it. I thought it was going to be packed with people and a bit of a mess. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was quite sparsely populated and actually very neat and tidy. I later read that unlike with most Asian countries, Cambodian's are rural people, where the vast majority still live outside of urban centres. There is also a lot of new construction, both residential and hotel complexes. You can feel that tourism has brought prosperity and potential for the local people. I was impressed to find out later that they also have very strict urban planning guidelines. For example, there are strict height restrictions for buildings. No building can be taller than the towers of Angkor Wat which stand at 63 metres.
Another surprise was when I went to the bank machine at the airport, as I always do, and withdrew ... US dollars and not Cambodian Riel!!! I was quite stunned to see the green bills coming out of the machine. I later realized that nearly all of the prices are quoted in US$, and the change that you will receive back is also more often than not of the green type!
So how to sum up Siem Reap and the surrounding temples? In a few words, spectacular ... -ly hot! The temples are impressive and the weather at this time of the year was hot and sticky. Basically tropical. It was monsoon season, which meant that the mornings were sunny and steamy, the humidity steadily building up during the day. By 10 am you were sweating like a pig! And then from 2 - 5 pm you would have torrential downpours which cooled the air down for the evening. This cycle repeated itself every day we were there. The good thing is that since the weather is so predictable, you knew to go see your sites in the morning, rest and relax during the afternoon, and then go out again for dinner when the temperature is more pleasant.
Technically, July is the low-season for Angkor Wat and I'm glad we came here at this time of the year. One thing that shocked me was how many tourists there were here. The days where you could have all the temples to yourself and feel like you're the one discovering them are definitely over. Today, the place is inundated with back-packers ... and thus I don't even want to imagine what the place looks like during high-season.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Jetstar has great connections from Singapore and the tickets are fairly inexpensive. Landing at Siem Reap airport was a complete treat. The airport is small, modern yet authentic.
Make sure you have US$20 for the entry visa, along with one passport photo. And then, of course, they also hit you with a 'passenger service charge' of US$ 25 when you depart.
ANGKOR ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
Of course, before I came here, I always thought that Angkor Wat was the temple, which is correct ... but what I did not realize is that there are several temple sites around Siem Reap, and Angkor Wat is perhaps the most famous, but definitely not the biggest.
The temples of Angkor were for long the capital of Cambodia's ancient Khmer empire. This empire lasted for more than 600 years, starting in AD 802. The temples were built in a way that showed of its political, cultural, economic and social empire ... thus in one word ... divine! As well, they have both Buddhist and Hindu influences, since these two religions played an important role throughout the Khmer empire, alternating several times in terms of their influence.
The temples were 'lost' to time for centuries and re-discovered by Henri Mouhot in the 1860's. Funny enough, we stayed in his room at the Raffles hotel ... not even knowing who he was when we entered the room!
Since the temple site is huge, you will need several days to visit most of them. Thus, the best is to get a 3-day pass which costs US$ 40. Moreover, the heat is exhausting and trying to do everything in one day is like a death sentence!
You can go and visit the temples by bicycle, tuk-tuk or by van. We decided to do the latter for the idea of cycling in the dead heat just did not appeal to us ... especially if we consider how tired we were when the day was over. However, we did take the tuk-tuk to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat, and that was brilliant ... for at 6 am the air is still fresh.
> Angkor Thom: We started our tour with Angkor Thom. 'Angkor' means capital city and 'Thom' means big. This temple, which contains the gigantic Bayon royal palace is very impressive. What I didn't expect is all the reliefs that you see both in Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat. They contain very intricate details and go on for 10's of metres in both temples. The terrace of the elephants was also stunning.
Walking around Angkor Thom is like walking around a large ruin ... and the photo opportunities are endless, which is going to make my editing process a complete nightmare :-) Let the following photos speak for themselves:
> Angkor Wat: Angkor Wat (Wat meaning temple) is definitely the photogenic little sibling that takes away all the attention. Although I thought it was not as intricate, detailed and well-preserved as Angkor Thom, it was definitely the more spectacular ... and guaranteed, will show up very well on your photos. Being photogenic is definitely it's biggest asset. We were lucky enough that the lighting was just perfect when we were there. There were some ominous black clouds in the sky, but below that was the sun shining and illuminating the temple with beautifully soft late afternoon sun. It was magical. What I also really liked is that in some of the corridors you would find huge buddha statues covered with a safron robe, with candles and incense at its base. These were what I called prayer stations.
One of the experiences that all the guidebooks mention is that you definitely need to see the sun rise above Angkor Wat. So we ordered our tuk-tuk driver to come pick us up at 5 am and off we went. Little did we know a million other people were going to be waking up at 5 am as well. The roads were full of little tuk-tuk's speeding around like overzealous flies, one overtaking the other, everyone rushing to get that coveted spot within the walls of Angkor Wat where the sun will rise. On the day we were there, just before the sun rose, the colours were spectacular ... and short. If you looked away for a few minutes, you would have missed all the beauty. All in all though, it was worth it. Sunrises, like sunsets, are simply awe-inspiring.
> Sunset at Phnom Bakheng: Of course, to end the day with a grand finale, we had to go see the sunset from the top of Phnom Bakheng. You can choose to ride up on the back of an elephant or walk the 20 minute trail. The top of the hill has a temple and I can say that it's more the location rather than the temple that makes it special. When we reached the top, we again saw that we were not the only ones that had this wonderful idea. Just like us, hordes of people were sitting and waiting for the sun to set over the West Baray reservoir in the distance ... and leave it's indelible magic on us. Don't forget to spot Angkor Wat from the top. It's actually exactly opposite to the sunset.
> Banteay Srey: This temple is further away than Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat. Being aobut 37 km from Siem Reap, you need a good 30-45 minutes to arrive there. Thankfully, that in istelf scares off a few of the tourists! Although the temple is much smaller that the main ones, it's intricate with a fragile beauty. The sandstone colour in the afternoon gives of some magical hues, and the very detailed carvings are more beautiful than the ones seen at the main temples. It's like a little gem, not very big but has a brilliant shine.
> Ta Prohm: If there is one picture that for me symbolized Angkor Wat from before I came here, it was the one with the temple being overgrown with tree roots. Little did I know that that wasn't technically Angkor Wat :-) Out of all the temples that we saw, this one is the most savage. It feels like the ruins have been abandoned to nature for centuries ... it is wild, overgrown and secluded. This is where you would expect to bump into Indiana Jones! Make sure you enter from the east side, for the entrance is more spectacular.
Although this was a pure coincidence, I recommend that you see the temples in the order above. Thinking of it now, this order makes the most sense.
> Guide: if you're needing a guide I can recommend Mean Ley. He was with us for two whole days and was very good. He is a local who speaks good English and was knowledgeable about the temples and the surroundings of Siem Reap. But best of all ... he takes great photos. He's got an eye for capturing visual moments. And if you have lots of photos of yourself where you have body parts missing because more often than not, when you hand your camera to a complete stranger to take that prized photo they screw up ... then you know what I'm talking about :-) You can call him at +855 126 3017 or email him at meanley@hotmail.com
KAMPONG PHHLUK FLOATING VILLAGE ON TONLE SAP LAKE
I actually think that this was my highlight of the whole trip, and not the temples. Driving out of Siem Reap, heading towards Tonle Sap Lake, you see the real Cambodia. It is poor, colourful and fascinating. The story has to start with Tonle Sap lake, which is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. During the wet season, this lake rises from a depth of 2.2 m to more than 10 metres. Now, you have to realize that this lake is 100 km long and very wide. So the amount of water that drains into the lake from the Mekong river is humongous. As the rain subsides, the water from the lake starts to drain and actually flushes out back into the Mekong river.
Due to this fluctuation in water height, the villages around the lake have adjusted by building their wooden shacks on stilts. 8 - 10 m stilts!!! It's like walking into a New York constructed of bamboo. Needless to say, the locals have adapted to this natural phenomenon: they live on water, shop from boats, have floating improvised sporting complexes, hospitals, etc.
Our guide had arranged for a private wooden long-boat to take us up the lake and into a small channel towards Kampong Phhluk. As we approached the village, we were greeted by little fishing boats with girls and boys on them. They soon pulled up right next to us and started selling us books and pens. The tradition goes that you buy these books and pens from them and then distribute them to the children in the schools that you're about to visit. I imagine that the books go back to the 'sellers' and the process starts all over again, once you're gone :-)
A very cute young boy approached me from one of these boats and immediately started selling me his note books. I, however, was more interested in talking to him and finding out more about him. He spoke very good English and told me he lived with the monks. He went to school every day from 2 - 5 pm and he loved playing football. He stayed with me throughout the whole visit of his kampong (village). Every now and then, still trying to sell me his books.
He soon realized I was not going to buy his books when I refused to go into the schools to hand them out. I feel stupid doing this. I feel like the white man has come to dole out presents to the local poor. The white man has come to rescue them. It's not my thing. So I moved on and went to the wat on the corner of town, looked at people's houses ... and he followed. Books in hand.
To end our trip to this kampong, we wanted to go on a small boat ride into the forest of trees floating in the water. I would like to say they were mangroves, but I don't think they were. The effect was spooky. You're in this small boat, a local paddling in front, and pushing through the murky waters into the low-hanging trees of this water forest. It didn't help that my paddler was talking to me about snakes and crocodiles!! I told the boy to come with me on this ride ... and he did. He wanted to come ... but he also kept saying to me that he hadn't sold any books yet. He thought he picked the wrong guy from the tourist boat. I kept telling him not to worry. Enjoy the ride!
But at the end of our trip, as we were dropped off to our long-boat that was to take us slowly back to our van, I smiled to the boy, thanked him and gave him money for his books ... and left the books with him.
I will always remember his smile :-)
Driving back to Siem Reap, we asked our guide to stop at a local restaurant. More than the food, it was the hammocks that interested us. We were ready for an afternoon snooze.
WHAT ELSE TO DO:
> take a tuk-tuk ride around Siem Reap: tuk-tuk's here are of a slightly different nature than in other South-East Asian countries. A covered carriage that accommodates four is actually attached to a motorbike, which makes the tuk-tuk much more versatile than the traditional motorized tuk-tuks. The way it actually works is that any local who has a motorbike can rent the carriage for the day, and thus earn their income. You can flag one down anywhere, and given that the price is about US$1 per person ... get the driver to give you a spin around town so that you get a feel of the city layout.
> Wander through the center and old market: located not too far from each other, these two markets provide a shopping extravaganza and a sight for your eyes. From the skinned chickens hanging from rods, to fish in buckets flapping to their death, to local handicrafts and fabrics ... you will find it all.
> Wat Bo: this temple which is on the outskirts of town was a complete gem. We stumbled onto it by complete accident ... and boy were we pleased that we found it. The temple with its stupas and surrounding gardens was pristine and authentic. Solemnly calm it lay in a very quiet part of town. We later realized what a luxury it was to have a wonderful cultural relic all to ourselves. This is how I wish we had seen Angkor Wat ... without the masses! But I think we're a couple of centuries too late!! Don't skip this temple.
> Royal Independence Gardens: located right across the Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, the gardens are beautifully manicured and provide an area for a calm stroll after a hectic day.
> Galleries around the city centre: after having dinner, take a peak in the myriad of galleries around the old city centre. From photographs to paintings, you will be impressed by what you see.
> Bayon Souvenir Shop: we ended up buying quite a few art pieces in this shop, located on Wat Bo road (right across the ultra modern Wat Preah Prom Rath temple). I'm sure there are several ones like this around town, but we were pleased with the selection in this one. We supposedly bought several antiques ... so they say ... but one never knows. I always say that the most important thing is that you believe that the artwork you bought is an antique :-) Don't forget to bargain!
> High tea at the Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor: there is nothing more colonial than high-tea (even though this is an utterly British tradition and not French!!). I have to admit that in this climate it really is the perfect thing to do in mid-afternoon. You can either get soaked in the monsoon showers outside, or sit inside sipping Early Grey tea and eating scones and bite-size sandwiches. Your choice!
WHERE TO EAT:
I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Khmer food is actually very good. I should have had not doubt though, since it's been influenced for centuries by Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. And don't forget to try Angkor beer. I'm not really a beer drinker, but this one I really liked!
> Khmer Kitchen (The Alley - between Bar Street and Psar Chaa): what a fantastic local restaurant with traditional Khmer cuisine. This was actually the best food we had in town. Try the Astok fish with rice ... divine! We had 7 dishes that we split amongst four of us, and the total price was $27.50! Who said that you have to pay a lot of money to get a fantastic meal!
> Le Malraux (Sivatha Boulevard): a perfect place for a break from the midday sun. Although we didn't eat here, we had a refreshing drink and sat and regrouped from the heat and exhaustion.
> Dead Fish Tower (Sivatha Boulevard): this is a funky and off-beat Thai restaurant right in the city centre. As you walk in, you've got platforms with tables at different levels which makes for a funky design. The clocks go backwards and the waiters bring the food to your table with the aide of pulleys. The food is good, but the decor is more interesting. The only thing that really annoyed me here is that they had what I counted 7 crocodiles trapped in a little pen. PETA would not be pleased!
> Viroth's (246 Wat Bo Street - behind La Residence Hotel): this is more of a destination restaurant since it's not right in the city centre. The decor is very modern with an interesting menu. When you want a reprise from the back-packer world, this is the place to go.
> in general there are a lot of restaurants around Pub Street and the old market. As you walk around you will see which ones attract the most crowds and are thus likely to be good.
HOTELS:
> Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor: This is the pre-eminent hotel in Siem Reap, with a 70+ year long tradition of entertaining world class guests. Jackie Kennedy and Charlie Chaplin have slept here. The property has a simplicity and an understated elegance which to me epitomizes the colonial era. The suites feel stately and have a wonderful terrace area where one could lounge. And the service and the staff's attention to detail is outstanding. At midday, when the heat starts to suck the energy out of you, you will be thankful for the very large pool area. Someone said it was the largest in Cambodia. When reserving, ask to be in the old building, which is the original one.
> FCC Angkor Hotel: this is a new boutique hotel which has all its rooms located around the central pool area. It also has a very nice European restaurant facing onto the street, with large terraces and outdoor sitting areas. Although done in a style that could suggest you could be anywhere, it is done well.
> I also saw that there is a Le Meridien and a Sofitel in Siem Reap ... which both looked respectable.
Hotels seem to be popping up like mushrooms in Siem Reap. The taxi driver told us there were 200 hotels in Siem Reap and 100 guest houses. We also heard that in low season some of the hotels lay-off all their staff and shut down for the season. Thus you want to make sure that you go for a reputable brand. You don't want to be arriving to a closed hotel :-)
Bojan Tercon
hi my friend, lovely travel report - Roberto and myself will be going there for Xmas, so great hints (though we won't be staying at the Raffles I am afraid - do you know the Viroth hotel ? looks nice as well...)
Big hug
Paul
Posted by: paul b. | November 23, 2009 at 03:27
wow - i want to go and experience this wonder of the world - and most of all the smiles and lovely people. i enjoy the simpleness of your story-telling - it very warm and generous. thanks so for the great experience.
kevin xo
Posted by: kevin cottam | July 22, 2008 at 20:39