Everyone knows the bigger, rowdier and more famous brother ... Amsterdam, but Utrecht, located 35 km south of Amsterdam, is a quaint and authentic Dutch town and full of charm.
Not to criticize Amsterdam, for it's a city that everyone should experience at least once ... but truth be known ... it's full of freaks :-) And after being exposed to that all day long, one needs the charm of a small city to unwind while sipping to a glass of white wine on the Oudegracht (old canal).
Utrecht is much smaller than Amsterdam and more gezellig - which is a frequently used Dutch word that can be loosely translated as 'cozy'. The old city centre, I was told, is the only one in Holland where you can sit at the same level as the water in the canals. From street level you walk down the stairs into the canal, where there is a ledge at water level. Here you will often find small restaurants and bars, with tables all along this ledge. Since these locales used to be the basements for shops at street level, where boats used to unload their merchandise and supplies, the restaurants in these 'caves' are very unique - quaint and beautifully done up.
This time around I was lucky enough to be in Holland during the Euro 2008 football championship, where on Saturday night Holland was playing against Russia, and unfortunately lost ... well, they actually didn't play that great! Anyhow, when the Dutch are feeling patriotic, they go Orange. As in everyone is dressed and painted in orange, which is their national colour. And just like the jovial feel of the colour, the Dutch streets take on a very lively atmosphere. You may be asking yourself why orange as a national colour? I know I asked myself that when I used to live in Amsterdam. The answer comes from Dutch history. The name of the Dutch royal family is Oranje, or the House of Oranje ... which translates into orange.
My parents in-law live in Utrecht, and we come here often. They have recently moved into a beautiful apartment on the canal, which used to be an old monastery and church. So what I find amusing is that the only place in this world where I've seen churches being converted into apartments is Holland. Seems like the church going population in Holland has decreased drastically over the past decades, that the churches don't have enough revenue and thus are being sold off to private developers. Only in Holland!
We were luck enough to catch great weather this time around. And when there is sunshine in Holland everyone is out and about ... and it's a beautiful place to be.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Utrecht is a 30 minute train ride from Schipol (Amsterdam airport). The train system in Holland is excellent, and you will not have a hard time getting to Utrecht once your plane lands.
WHAT TO DO:
If you're staying in Utrecht, or if you're here just for the day, here are some must-do's:
> Walk up-and-down the Oudegracht: It's full of interesting shops and restaurants. If you're lucky to catch a sunny day, sit by the canal and at least have a drink. Holland is famous for throngs of people sitting outside and socializing (i.e. people watching) every time the sun peeps out. At night I recommend you go to one of the many restaurants that are down in the canal. You will experience having dinner sitting in a cavern type structure, for as mentioned earlier, these used to be the basements for the shops at street level.
> Bloemenmarket (flower market - located in the centre - just ask around): There is no country in this world that has cheaper flowers than Holland. The flower market is a carpet of colours and smells, and a dozen roses will set you off no more than a couple euros. Make youself smile and buy a dozen.
> Rent a bike: the only way this country can be truly appreciated is from a bike. And if it's your first time pedalling a bike in a long while, and you just need some practice, Utrecht is the place to be. Only then can you graduate to the grand test of riding around Amsterdam, where it's like a video-game: bus on the right, tram ahead, car passing you on the side, other bikers trying to push you out of their way, taxis aiming to knock you down, pedestrian criss-crossing ... you get the image :-)
> Domtoren (Dom Tower): Many, many years ago, this used to be the highest structure in the Dutch Kingdom. Today, the Cathedral and its tower are still very imposing. Make sure you climb to the top of the tower to see the view and the splendid bells.
> Kroller-Muller Museum: although not in Utrecht, this is a stunning museum set amidst the National Park Hoge Veluwe. The museum is located by Apeldoorn, approximately 60 km from Utrecht and will take you little over an hour to get there by train. It has an astounding private collection of Mondriaan, van Gogh, Picasso, Leger and other great sculptors and painters. Moreover, it's set in a beautiful park. So, besides the art displayed indoor and outdoor, you can also marvel at the wonderfully manicured gardens and the architecture of the buildings that house all the art pieces. It's a wholistic approach to art that I guarantee you will enjoy. Don't forget to rent a bike when you enter the grounds ... it's a great way to see the surrounding area.
> Museum Quarter: this is the old and beautifully restored part of Utrecht. Wandering around the streets is like taking a step back in time, especially if you come here at night. The Centraal Museum is worth a visit. In December we went to see the exhibition The House of Viktor & Rolf. It's the story of the Dutch fashion duo Viktor & Rolf and their rise to becoming one of the most talented and freshingly innovative haute couture designers of our time. This is where you really see fashion as art.
> boating on Loosdrecht: the countryside between Utrecht and Amsterdam is very picturesque. Small Dutch style houses, perfectly manicured gardens, bicycle paths and plenty of rhododendrons blooming in the spring weather. Plus, there are many beautiful canals in the vicinity of Utrecht, the river Vecht lined with several grandiose mansions and the big lake of Loosdrecht. Given that Holland is the land of water and canals, there is no better way to see this country than from a boat. It's very typical to see groups of Dutch cruising down the canals in their open-design boats, weather permitting of course. It's somewhat like having a picnic on the water: people sitting and standing in their boats, sipping rose and eating a variety of canapes ... with the customary assortment of delicious Dutch cheeses, cold-cuts and desserts! It's a beautiful way to get to know Holland ... right from the water.
> hot-air ballooning over Utrecht: WOW!!! I finally did it. And it was as magical as I expected. I've wanted to go hot-air ballooning for a long time ... and on May 21, we took Robin's family on this great trip, to see their hometown and the surrounding area from up above. His parents were just in awe ... to see the city they've lived in for nearly 60 years from 1600 m.
The weather didn't start of the best this morning. What I've learnt about ballooning is that everything is unpredictable ... because weather is unpredictable! Thankfully the day cleared up around 1600 ... and as we all arrived to the departure area, which was a big park on the outskirts of Utrecht ... we found out that the wind was still to strong. So the waiting game began! And some more waiting ... till finally the 'captain' gave us the green light and we started blowing up the balloon with hot air. The gigantic balloon started to inflate ... with a massive Virgin logo on it. I thought perhaps you had to be a virgin to go on it ... I would have been kicked off for sure!!!
As the people in the park were staring in amazement as the balloon inflated fully and started lifting into the sky, we all jumped into the basket ... and up, up and away we went. It was amazing! I just love watching the world from up high ... for the beauty is just so undeniable. What totally surprised me is that the ride was completely silent and smooth. There was absolutely no noise ... other than us chatting in excitement. Just the wind blowing us into the horizon, over the evening lit landscape with the sun setting over a perfectly cloudless sky. Even at 1600m, when you looked down ... no fear! It's weird for all that you have between you and the emptiness below ... is a basket. Not much ... but enough I guess.
That's when Bas exclaims ... it's like watching Google Earth! Today's youth :-)
After over an hour, and with the sun having had dipped into the horizon, it was time to start our descent back to mother earth. The sky was ever-changing from a yellow, to a burning orange, to an indigo blue ... to ever darker colours. As we descended you could see the houses, people having dinner outside in their backyards, the dogs barking at us, cows staring with a bewildered look, rabbits running through the fields, foxes dodging the shadow of the balloon ... and I could go on and on. I just couldn't help smiling. I was happy!
We were told to hold on for landing ... for it's a bit bumpy. So we all got ready ... with our backs facing the direction that we were travelling in ... and suddenly thump, bang ... and back into the air ... and another wack into the ground, a jump, a hop ... and our basket finally came to a stop. Beautiful! And somewhat rough!
A side-story ... I've had these Prada sunglasses for years, for which I paid a small fortune, and I've been thinking recently how it would be great to loose them so I could justify buying a new pair. Dont' get me wrong, I've loved these glasses, and they've done me well ... but you know, it's time for a new pair! Wouldn't you know it that on the first thump into the ground with our basket ... the sunglasses flew off my head and into the field below. Finally ... I thought! God is telling me ... go buy yourself a new pair!! Yooohoooooo! you see ... nature takes care of everything :-)
The funny thing about landing in a hot-air balloon, is that you never quite know where you're going to land ... and actually our landing spot couldn't have been better. Right by a small country road, on a field that looked barren. Until ... the owners of the land came to pay us a visit. An older couple: stern, angry, sour, distant ... and displeased that we ruined their field! They said that they had just planted grass seeds and that we ruined everything with our landing. Hardly!! They finally extorted 50 EUR from us!!!!! I assume for replacing their grass seeds. More likely though ... to have a drink at the local pub!!
Oh ... and wouldn't you know it ... my nieces and nephews wanted to go see if they could find my sunglasses. They were all clamouring for them. I said fine ... first one who finds them ... keeps them. So off we all went. We're all searching in very little light, for the sun had set a long time ago ... till the captain calls us back, for the farmer was complaining that we're trampling even more seeds. As I turn back, I make my first step to return ... and right by my foot ... my Prada sunglassess. Damn!!!! I picked them up, put them on my head ... and realized that nature is telling me ... don't spend money on a new pair just yet.
To book a ride on a hot-air balloon in Utrecht, contact Sky Promotions at www.virgin.nl
> Lunch in the Champagne region with a twist!
RESTAURANTS:
> De Heeren van Leeuw Restaurant (Twijnstraat a/d Werf 4, Utrecht, Tel: 030 238 0595): This is a delightful little restaurant completely off the tourist track. Located right on the Oudegracht, below street level, this is a very local restaurant with a simple yet tasteful menu. The environment is cozy, the menu comes to you on a heavy chalk-board, and since it's not that easy to find ... the patrons are very Dutch.
> Delphi's: When I was doing my MBA in Nyenrode, Breukelen … a beautiful little town very close to Utrecht … we would always come to Delphi's for a group dinner. We loved the Greek food here, so I was very happy to return to this great place after several years. And it's easy to find. When you're on the Oudergracht, find the McDonald's … and walk down that street onto the Neude square behind. Delphi's is located on the right-hand side.
> Zilt & Zoet (Maartensdijk): I've always thought that some of the best restaurants in Holland are not in the big cities, but actually in farm houses in small idyllic towns. Zilt & Zoet is one of them. Located on the outskirts of Utrecht, this is a wonderful and very affordable restaurant. The hardest thing about it will be finding it :-)
> Bresson, brasserie française: it is well known amongst the Dutch that Utrecht restaurants offer great value for money. Bresson on the Oudegracht is a prime example. We had a post Xmas dinner here, and the French cuisine was outstanding. As was the price. 4 course meal for 44.50 EUR!
Bojan Tercon
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