I have no idea where Jeju is. When Robin said let's go to a conference on social networking in Jeju … I said where?
Jeju is a Korean island that is registered as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site due to it being a volcanic island with extraordinary lava tubes. Mt. Halla is the tallest volcano on the island and is also the highest mountain in South Korea at 1950m. Jeju lies some 60 minutes by plane due south of Seoul. It is also a self-governing province which is very much focused on being a high-tech test bed, and due to the ideal geographical location and it's mild climate with four very distinct seasons, tourism is also a big industry. The island also seems to be placing a lot of emphasis on renewable energy, for you see many wind farms along with solar panel stations. As you would expect in South Korea, everything is modern and advanced.
We came here for we were attending the LIFT conference. Don't worry … we're not specializing in elevators. It's a Swiss based conference that explores the social implications of new technologies in today's era. And I later found out it stands for Life Ideas Future Together. A quick summary of the conference: we learnt how to stroke your chicken remotely (no pun intended here!!) and how to launch satellites. Needless to say, there were some very interesting discussions. For more details on the conference though, go to
www.liftconference.com
During one of the lunches, we had a great conversation with American-born Koreans, that have returned back to Seoul from having grown-up in New York. They were giving us insight into the very strong Korean culture. They were saying that the Koreans are very extreme. When they do something, they do it 500%. When they build a real estate project … that means 15 buildings, and that's only part A of the project! I also mistakenly thought that you could group the Korean market with the Japanese, for from the outside, to me, there are many similarities. But I was very wrong. Korea is an island in all senses of the word thus you cannot group Koreans with their neighbors for they have a very unique cultural, economic and business landscape.
The great thing about conferences is that you can learn a lot about a culture just by talking to the local participants, by asking the right questions. So … I learnt that Korea is the land of plastic surgery. Much more than breast augmentation, the popular surgery here is to carve your eyelids and to create a nose bridge. What am I talking about? Koreans genetically have no eyelids, there is no flap in the skin and the nose bridge is very wide and flat.
The one oddity on the island … all public places, parks, gardens, museums, even the hike up to the volcanic crater Seongsan Ilchulbong … the bushes all sing to you. They have piped music everywhere. We climbed up to the top of the crater, and all along the way, and at the top, we listened to Bee Gees and Beatles. Hmmm!
HOW TO GET THERE:
> Gimpo Airport, Seoul: My Asiana flight to Jeju departed from Gimpo airport which is about a 35 minute drive from Incheon (Seoul) airport. So invariably you will have to transfer from Incheon, for that is where most international flights land. The bus transfer costs 6,500 Won and busses depart regularly from bus stop 10. Several domestic/regional airlines such as Air Busan, Jin Air and Jeju Air also fly from this airport.
> Jeju Airport: a great regional airport … with the most memorable part being that as soon as we landed and entered the terminal, we had to get into line and one-by-one wash/sanitize our hands with liquid gel. That was a first. I guess aftershocks from the H1N1 pandemic!
> Getting around: the best way to see the island is to hire a taxi for the day. The hotel arranged for a cab, and for 5 hours we paid 100,000 Won, approx. US$ 90. So very decent … and you can customize your program.
WHAT TO DO:
> Seongsan Ilchulbong: Volcanic crater located on the east end of Jeju Island. This was to me the most spectacular geological feature on the island. As you drive to it, make sure you stop at one of the parking spots prior (south) to the crater, so that you can have a view of it from the sea. And then head to the foot of the crater, and start the steep ascent to the top. Many stairs, but well worth it. The view is wonderful and there is something very magical when you stand on the rim of this crater overlooking the sea.
> Micheon Caves (Ilchul Land): I wanted to see the lava tubes / caves so the concierge recommended to go see the Micheongul site. Prior to entering the lava tubes you walk through an overly manicured garden … and then you descend some steps and start walking down what seems like a long lava tube. It was interesting, but they had decorated it with garish blue, white and red lighting. Interesting choice. The lava tubes are about 1.5 km long here, but you can only walk 350 metres … and then you turn around and walk back. Overall, interesting concept … but not what I imagined.
> Jeongbang and Cheonjiyeon waterfall: these waterfalls are not far from each other. The former have a pretty garden leading up to the waterfall, while the latter ones fall pretty much into the sea.
> Jungmun beach: there are several beaches scattered around the island. Jungmun is a pretty stretch of yellow-brown sand and clear water with steep hills behind it leading to the various hotels. The only issue again … throughout the whole beach they have positioned large speakers blasting out music. What a way to spoil the natural beauty of this lovely stretch of beach!
> Dolharubang Stone Grandfather Statue: these statues can be seen all around the island. Built of black lava stone, these statues are placed at entrances and symbolize guardians. They look powerful yet calm! Very much reminded me of Balinese guardian statues. Would take one home if they weren't so damn big and heavy.
> International Conference Centre Jeju: you may come to Jeju for a conference … you never know … but if you do have an opportunity, come along. The conference centre is located at the footsteps of the Pacific Ocean, where the circular glass structure offers stunning 360 views of the surrounding sea and volcano landscape of the southern coast of Jeju.
HOTELS:
> <The Shilla Jeju: A resort hotel on the southern part of the island, located right above Jungmun beach. It has a large outdoor pool area, great location overlooking the sea and perfectly manicured grounds. And as you walk around the large grounds, there's music being piped through various bush-speakers … again. All very beautiful … except the unnatural music! To get to this hotel from the airport, take the shuttle service that departs from gate 1. Cost is 3,900 Won.
> Hyatt Regency: located adjacent to The Shilla Jeju, the style is similar except that the Hyatt is right above the beach, while The Shilla is slightly inset from the beach. We were at the Hyatt for a gala dinner, and although it's a great hotel, it's very much a typical American hotel. So if you want something a bit more local, try the neighboring property listed above.
FOOD:
I'm not a fussy eater at all, but I have to be honest ... I'm trying to like Korean food … but am finding it hard. I think it's an acquired taste … and maybe with time I will start enjoying it just like I've learned to enjoy beer.
> Bibimbap dish: I was starving when I got to the hotel and since there's not much around this area I decided to eat lunch at one of the hotel restaurants … before I got too cranky. The staff of the Korean/Japanese restaurant recommended a typical Korean dish … bibimbap. It seems that Korean cuisine is all about multiple small dishes: bowl of warm white rice, seasoned vegetables, beef, cold soup, chili pepper paste and the like. It all looked nice, but I somehow can't get used to the taste. Will have to keep trying!
> Shabu-shabu at Sinwoosung Town: last night we had to try out a typical Korean restaurant. I'm not (yet) into trying out live octopus and other moving fish, but instead opted for a shabu-shabu dish. With this dish you basically play cooking. They put a burner with a pot of broth (I assume) in front of you, and then you toss in various vegetables and dip in thinly sliced beef. Best of all you have to do this with chopsticks … metal chopsticks, which are much harder to maneuver than typical wooden ones.
> Live anything: the local residents on Jeju seem to have a propensity to eat anything live and that comes from the sea. And I don't mean cooked … raw! We were on the beach and some local ladies were preparing sea cucumbers … pealing them and slicing them up. No thank you :-)
> Peanut butter roasted squid: we stopped at a little shop at one of the waterfalls that we visited, and we saw a sign for coffee. And since it was early morning … an espresso was on order. While we're ordering coffee, Robin points to a picture and says 'I'll take that!' So I said sure, me too! Well, it was roasted squid baked with peanut butter sauce. May sound terrible … but it was actually quite good.
Bojan Tercon
It seems to me that the phrase "to stroke your chicken remotely" really warrants a more thorough explanation here.
Posted by: Alex | September 22, 2009 at 05:44