Now this island is a true gem, one that I never even heard of before, even though I’ve been to Bali countless times!
If you know Bali well, you will know there is an island called Nusa Penida pretty much due East from Denpasar. It’s a large un-populated monolith, which except for a few small local towns right on the water really has nothing much for the tourist.
But what you can’t see from the shores of Bali is that right adjacent to Nusa Penida are two small islands - Nusa Lembongan and the tiny Nusa Ceningan (which is connected to Lembongan by a pedestrian bridge), for they just blend into the background of the larger island.
Lembongan is paradise! It’s what Bali doesn’t have ... fantastic beaches! Despite it being densely populated, at least compared to Lombok and the Gili’s, it still has a local feel, and the sea and reefs surrounding the island have the clarity and azure colour that you can’t find anywhere in Bali. And the snorkeling is one of the best I’ve ever seen. Total surprise!
Interestingly, since the sea shelf extends far into the water creating a popular surf break quite a distance from the shore, the water right by the beach is very calm and shallow. And as you swim around you will notice seaweed farms underwater, planted in long horizontal lines. Why seaweed? I hear it’s all for the cosmetic industry. Who knew you put seaweed onto your face?!
GETTING THERE:
> Scoot Cruise or Blue Water Express: Nusa Lembongan is well connected to the surrounding islands with the so-called island hoppers. If you’re coming from Gili Trawangan, you can catch the fast boat that reaches Lembongan in 90 to 120 minutes, depending on prevailing winds and the direction of travel.
If you’re ‘stuck’ on Gili T for a 3 hour layover, like we were, the place to hang out is Scallywags Cafe. They have great Illy Cafe, a delicious lemon merengue pie and air conditioned bathrooms that are reputed to be the best on the island.
> heading to Bali: there are nearly hourly transfers to Sanur which takes 30 minutes
THINGS TO DO:
> Boat cruise around the island: this is the true asset of Nusa Lembongan ... its crystal clear water and underwater life that is teeming with beautiful fish and colourful and un-spoiled corals. We chartered a boat for a half-day trip around the island from a local on the beach. They know where to stop for the best snorkeling ... by the mangrove forest.
RESTAURANTS:
> Scallywags: it was on Gili T that we found out that there is also a great Scallywags restaurant on Nusa Lembongan. So on the same day that we arrived we decided to have another celebratory dinner and cake there. The beauty of this restaurant is that it’s located in a very remote and rough part of the island - on the south-western tip. They have a great BBQ at night with red snapper, squid and veggie kebabs to suppress your hunger, an extensive wine cellar, and the wild sea right next to you, violently crashing against the shore. Given that it’s a fair distance from the town centre, they provide a much appreciated free transfer.
> Mushroom Bay: there are several restaurants here, some which are more suitable for sunset cocktails and others that provide a great dining experience, such as the Bali Cafe. Extra bonus - brilliant view of Mt Agung on Bali on the near horizon.
HOTELS:
> Indiana Kenanga Villas: this very small boutique hotel has 2 private villas with pool and 8 rooms and opens up right onto the beach. The place is run by a French surfer chef extraordinaire! The fantastic restaurant perfectly compliments the charming locale. And the bar right on the beach is a great sunset lounge. Did I mention that in the morning, when you wake up, you just walk straight down to the beach for a wonderful morning swim? The only ‘problem’ were the crazy roosters that started cooing at 430 am. They were totally confused as to the time of sunrise. They need to be educated!
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