I haven't been to HK in around 30 years. I was there last with my family, when we lived in India. So I was about 6 or 7. But I do have some vivid memories from our time in the city. I remember being picked up from the airport by a Rolls Royce, and one night I remember going to a restaurant where as you stepped in, there were several glass tanks with various animals in them. Some with water, some without. I was especially intrigued by all the snakes in the tanks … until I realized that everything that you saw … was to be eaten.
What Hong Kong definitely has is the buzz … the New York type of energy that you can only get when you put millions of people on top of each other, living in shoe-sized apartments … so that they rather be on the streets than at home. As you're walking the streets, there are people everywhere. It's quasi a sensory overload. Masses moving in all directions, smells ranging from fried food to sewage, flashing neon signs, a cacophony of noise. You get the picture.
One thing that I forgot about HK, for it's always so closely associated with the Brits, is that it's a quintessential Chinese city. It's not dissimilar to what you see in Shanghai, sans the stunning setting. From afar, looking at all the blitzing lights and the skyscrapers you see a modern metropolis. But as you come to street level, you realize that the futuristic skyline gives way to a chaotic, quasi grunge looking microcosm where rundown paint-stripped buildings, bamboo scaffolding and millions of outdoor stalls all buzz with life. The locals also give it an edge. You can see that the Hong Kongers are very entrepreneurial, they're all buying and selling and turning over the bucks. And they're very adaptable. Remember June 30, 1997? When the UK reverted HK back to the Chinese? Remember the drama? Today, more than a decade later, that historical milestone has been all but forgotten. The people have moved on and adapted to the new situation.=
The other asset of HK, of course is it's stunning location. Nestled against the hills of HK Island, with Victoria Harbour separating Central from Kowloon, the geographic setting doesn't get much better than this. Who hasn't seen the picture-perfect postcard of the HK skyline at sunset. Paradoxically though, one of its biggest assets also highlights one of its biggest problems - smog. There is so much pollution in the air, that when standing at the Star Ferry terminal in Kowloon, all you can see is a soupy shroud covering the skyscrapers across the water.
Given that I live in Singapore, I've been trying to stay away from drawing comparisons between these two competitors … two cities that to me are completely different from each other. But if I had to summarize it in one line, I would say: Yes, Honk Kong may be more exciting, but you cannot beat the standard of living in Singapore.
> May 2011 visit to HK with ASAE
HOW TO GET THERE:
Hong Kong is an easy 3.5 hour flight from Singapore. The new HK International Airport (which replaces the famous Kai Tak airport, where planes while landing literally flew a few metres away from the clothes lines hanging out of residential buildings), is built on an artificial island just off Lantau Island and is modern, vast and very cold. A grey concrete jungle … gosh, they could have used some colour!
> Getting from/to the airport is easy. There is a train that takes you to Central Station in 23 minutes, or you can take a taxi (cheap) or a bus. If you want to indulge yourself, arrange for a pick-up from the hotel. We had a huge Benz limo come pick us up. It was a bit ironic that we flew in with Jetstar and drove into the city with a limo … which cost more than our ticket to HK … ha, ha!
> public transport: the infrastructure in HK is excellent, and between the metros, busses, trams, taxis and boats you will have absolutely no problem getting around … and in a very cheap manner.
WHAT TO DO:
> tram ride: this is the best way to see dynamic and energetic HK … from the top deck of the double-decker rickety trams called 'Ding Ding'. There's actually (more or less) only one line that goes up and down HK Central … so nowhere really to get lost. And it's cheeeap! $2 per ride and you can go as near or as far as you want.
> ride the escalator: billed as the world's longest escalator, you hop on at IFC and the ride takes you all the way up to SOHO and beyond. As you're moving along, below you you will see the dynamicsm that this city is renowned for. Above you the modernity of a world-class city, and below you … a landscape dotted with outdoor vendors, open markets with pig carcasses hanging on hooks, antique shops, small food outlets … all chaotic, all a mess and all terribly exciting. And when you're ready to enter onto the street level … just descend from the escalator and enter the street life of HK.
> shopping with GOD (Goods of Desire): there are 5 GOD's in HK, but we went to GOD Central, as it's called, in the vicinity of Hollywood Road. The store sells all sorts of knick-knacks … from flashy underwear in anatomically correct plastic containers (brilliant design) to furniture, to Mao inspired art and clothing. If you don't walk out of this store with a purchase … then something is wrong with you!
> pedicure/manicure at Iyara (Cochrane Street): didn't expect to do this at all … but one thing led to another … and there we were, with our feet soaking in hot water and a flurry of Chinese and Thai women tending to our every need. For the more courageous men, you can sit in the front room, which is facing onto the street (i.e. everyone can see you getting your feet done) … otherwise there is a very cosy back room, more private, where all the men hide … secretly indulging in a wonderful pedicure and manicure.
> Star Ferry ride from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon): seeing the HK skyline from the water is obligatory, for of course it's one of the most spectacular city views in the world. And the cheapest way to do it is to take a Star Ferry crossing between Central and Kowloon.
> Shopping at IFC (International Financial Center): the latest shopping mall in HK is also the most high-end. Glamour and glitz in clothing abound in this mall located on the HK Island waterfront. And if you go to the top floor of the IFC you will find numerous rooftop bars with spectacular views of Kowloon across.
> Massage at Happy Foot (Jade Center, 98-102 Wellington Street, right below the Central Mid-Levels Escalator; Tel: 2544 1010): got back pain? After massage … back pack gone! They lock you up in a small room, give you over-sized boxer shorts … and then slather you with oil. And for the next 75 minutes you get an intense, primarily back (and some butt) massage … and it's fantastic!
> cruise along Victoria Harbour with Aqualuna: board the red-sail Chinese junk boat and sail the beautiful Victoria Harbour while sipping on a cocktail.
> discover the other side of Hong Kong - Stanley: for HK $9 you can take mini-bus #40 departing from Tang Lung Street (right across from Causeway Bay metro station) all the way to Stanley, on the southern tip of HK Island. When I finally got there I was wondering … hmmm, not really much to do here, other than go through yet another outdoor market. However, what was most fascinating is to realize that there is more to HK than just high-rises and chaos … the island is actually very lush and green, with some lovely beaches.
> shopping at Mong Kok: right next to the Mong Kok metro station in Kowloon, when you just thought you've seen all the shopping possible … here you come to three parallel streets with endless outdoor stalls: children's clothes, sports apparel, watches, jewelry, birds, handbags, tablecloths, stamps … you name it, they've got it!
> Aberdeen typhoon shelter: we hopped onto an old junk boat and toured the marina. The Jumbo seafood market, mega yachts and fishing boats all share this bay sheltered by hills on both sides. The fishing boats you see comprise a floating village where families actually live. You will see boats that sell water, gas, containers, drinks and food, all being staples required for the daily fishing trips they make into the South China Sea.
> Stanley market: yet more shopping in Hong Kong, this time on the southern part of HK Island, where things are relatively more quiet and less expensive and the bargaining is gentler. At least according to our resident shoppers.
> Madame Tussauds at the Peak: take a photo opportunity with Obama and Clinton, Einstein, Madonna and Lady Gaga. Some look real, some look so-so. The place is not that big so it’s an easy 30 min distraction for your kids.
> Sky 100 Observation Deck at International Commerce Centre: ICC is the tallest building in Hong Kong and the 4th tallest in the world. The observation deck is on the 100th floor and you can walk around the whole perimeter of the building giving you a stunning 360 panorama of this beautiful city.
> Cable-car ride down from the Peak: in just 7 minutes you will drop from the top of the Peak to central Hong Kong. It’s quite unbelievable for the drive up takes quite a bit longer. And the road is very windy.
> an evening at Happy Valley race track
RESTAURANTS:
> Dim Sum at Western Market (Sheung Wan): A must do while in HK! This old market is one of the few preserved colonial buildings around. I thought Singapore was bad with protecting it's heritage … but I here HK is even worse. The Dim Sum restaurant is on the top floor, in a vast space right under the A-framed roof. The sides of the brick building are adorned with colorful stained glass windows. But most importantly … amazing food … I only hope that you know what you're ordering … for the food doesn't come out in carts … only menu. And in the evenings, I hear the tables disappear and the hardwood floor converts into a ballroom dancing extravaganza.
> Sunday brunch at TOTT's - Talk of the Town: the restaurant is located on the 34th floor of the Excelsior Hotel. As we walked through, for we wanted to see the view, you couldn't help but notice the wonderful smell of food permeating the room. And the view … that's the asset. A 180 view of Kowloon and HK to the sides. During regular nights they say there's a great band playing here.
> Hullett House: This is one of the very few colonial buildings still standing. It used to be the former Marine Police HQ that has just recently been restored and opened. On the top floor you have a very exclusive hotel with 10 individually designed rooms and below, around the courtyard and on the veranda that spans the whole front of the building, you have 6 restaurants to choose from. For dinner we went to Loong toh yen … a Chinese restaurant with incredible food. Imagine the combo of lamb and fish together in one dish. And when dinner is over … head out to the Stables Grill for a drink on the veranda. The only downside … the ugly theatre that is on the Kowloon waterfront, blocking the view of Central across the water.
> The Peak Lookout: This is why you come to HK … right … the spectacular view! And although ironically this restaurant is called The Peak Lookout, from the terrace you don't really have a view, for you're facing south. But if you walk 100 m down the road the whole skyline of HK opens up in front of you with a stunning vista of Victoria Harbour. We sat on this terrace for hours and chatted and drank … which was perfect for this holiday Monday.
> Dinner at Cafe Deco on the Peak: want a restaurant with a view? This definitely qualifies. If you get a table right by the floor-to-ceiling windows you will get a stunning view of the Hong Kong skyline at your feet. The food is solid, but the view is the main selling point.
> Mesa 15: a cozy tapas bar right on 15 Hollywood Road with great sangria.
HOTELS:
The main decision you will have to make is which side of HK you want to see from your room. From Kowloon you will have the world famous HK skyline in front of you, yet what you're looking at is actually the more exciting part of town. So basically the decision falls between the famous vista or being in the center of it all. You know you can't have it all :-)
> J.W. Marriott: located right behind the Exhibition and Convention Centre, this is a perfect conference hotel. Built in 89, this it the first Marriott hotel in the Asia Pacific region. With its angular architectural design giving each room a corner window, you have a great view of Victoria Harbour or the Peak, depending what side you’re on.
> Conrad Hotel: right adjacent to the Marriott and Shangri-La hotels, this hotel occupies only the top floors of the high-rise. The suites are large and also have wonderful views of the Harbour or Peak.
> Ritz Carlton Hotel: this recently opened hotel’s claim to fame is that it's the highest hotel in the world. Occupying the top 17 floors of the International Commerce Tower (ICC), this is obviously the crown jewel in the Ritz Carlton chain. The Singaporean design company has created an interior that is opulent, with well utilized space, incorporating a design that very much cateres to a Chinese clientele. Gorgeous crystal contemporary chandeliers, a lot of mirror features, dark and rich colours and plenty of large windows to take in the breath-taking views. The top floor of the building - 118th floor - is where the health club is located and the Japanese designed Ozone bar. They also have several great restaurants and 7 private dining rooms. What was amazing to see is that the view has been utilized to the max in the design of the hotel - each room, restaurant, lounge, lobby area, bar or health club has an incredible panoramic view of Hong Kong. I'm certain you won't find a better view in town.
> Hotel Excelsior: not the most modern hotel but a fantastic location. Ask for the rooms facing Victoria Harbour … even if you have to pay some more … you won't regret it!
Bojan Tercon
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