Vancouver is definitely one of the most beautiful cities in this world. And a very laid back one at that.
As I was flying into Vancouver on a clear and warm day this September, looking out the window at the lakes, mountains and forests, I fell in love with the city once again. I lived here for 10 years ... throughout the entire 90's. And every time I come back, I feel totally connected to the natural setting.
Vancouver is an outdoor city. You can go sailing and skiing all within a day. People go for walks, they hike, they jog, they meditate, they roller-blade, they swim, they do yoga ... it's all about being connected to nature. It's a healthy city, a zen city, a liveable city ... people are obsessed about their diets. Consequently, Vancouverites look fit and healthy! And I love that. I would go for a jog down the beach or to the gym at the community centre ... and everything is setup for a healthy lifestyle. Even the city trolley busses have bike racks. Now where else have you seen that?
Pundits are quick to point out that this nature obsession is also Vancouver's shortcoming. When I lived there in the 90's, transplants would say but the culture scene sucks, or there are no great bars, why do big shows not come to Vancouver? And I still hear people complaining about that today. And perhaps Vancouver doesn't have the most exciting arts scene ... but when the sun sets over the water and the sky turns a million shades of red, the lights of downtown start to twinkle and the mountains in the background slowly blend into the navy blue sky ... who cares about culture!
What is also exceptional in Vancouver is that its downtown is very liveable and alive, 24 hours a day. Urban planning and good public transport has encouraged a commercial/residential mix in the downtown area which has created a community where people live and work. It doesn't have that abandoned feel of many North American cities, where the downtown core is purely commercial. Thus when night falls ... the streets become deserted. Sometimes I have to laugh, because only in Vancouver do they convert so many commercial properties and hotels into residential units. At one point ... where are people going to work??
I have to say though, that on this visit I made the conclusion that Vancouver is the Amsterdam of North America. Why? I go for a jog to Kits beach and I might as well have gotten high on the way. Everyone is smoking weed! Homeless people everywhere. One weirder than the next. As you walk from Sunset Beach to English Bay I watched two have a screaming match. I was wondering what they could be upset about? Another homeless was setting up his elaborate campsite for the night, behind a log at another beach. I was actually surprised how many possessions he had amassed in his shopping cart. Men wearing skirts, joggers pushing strollers, cylcists with mohawks ... this city has it all. It's alternative, it's grunge ... and that's what makes it interesting. Perhaps this is Vancouver's special brand of culture. I feel it's come to a point, that no matter how weird you are in Vancouver, you simply don't stand out. There's bound to be someone weirder just around the corner :-)
There is, however, one shortcoming of Vancouver. Well, the thing that makes the city clean and green ... rain ... is also what can kill you! When it rains for days and days and the gray clouds just won't clear-out ... it can get depressing. And much of the winter is like that.
But then, the sun eventually comes out and you experience a renaissance. You see the mountains and the see in all their glory and you magically forget about the weeks and weeks of rain that you persevered. Paradise is here ... and that's why it's one of the most beautiful cities in this world. On a gorgeous day, the city takes your breath away. That even rhymes ... ha, ha!
HOW TO GET THERE:
Vancouver's international airport is well connected with all major cities worldwide.
If you're going to do domestic flights, besides Air Canada, try also WestJet.
Surprisingly, especially for a North American city, Vancouver has a fantastic public transport system. The busses are very well organized and there is a skytrain system that is currently being expanded in preparation for the 2010 Winter Olympic Games. So getting around is fairly easy.
WHAT TO DO:
> Granville Island: This little enclave right underneath Granville Street bridge is where you will find a wonderful food market, little art shops, street performances and many restaurants. You can even come here by ferry from the Aquatic Centre, which is on the downtown side, ride below the Burrard Bridge. Grab a croissant and your coffee and sit in the afternoon sun while listening to a Peruvian playing a pan-flute.
> Stanley Park: these are the lungs of downtown Vancouver. One of the biggest city parks anywhere in the world, this park offers a myriad of outdoor activities. Rent a bike on the corner of Denman and Georgia and ride the 11km sea-wall, ending at English Bay. You will pass totem poles, lakes, going under Lion's Gate Bridge, have beautiful vistas of downtown Vancouver and the North Shore and expansive lawns to have a little rest or nap.
> Drinks and picnic on Jericho beach: Located in Kitsilano, there is no better view of Vancouver from the water than this. Go there in the late afternoon, bring a light dinner, some drinks and a beach blanket, find a perfect spot in the sand and let nature overwhelm you as the sun sets down. Make sure you pick a clear day for this :-)
> Shopping on Robson Street: there are lots of malls in Vancouver, however, this is the outdoor - street shopping mecca. Walking down Robson Street, from Burrard and all the way to Davie Street, you will pass a myriad shops. Best of all, you will see something I haven't seen anywhere else in the world. Two Starbucks kitty corner to each other. And they've been there for years!
> Grouse Mountain: if you're in Vancouver in the winter, then this is the place to go skiing (along with Cypress and Seymour), however, if you're here in the summer, take the cable-car to the top of Grouse Mountain, stroll around and enjoy the incredible vista of Vancouver from 900m above. I also recommend coming up here for dinner. Make a reservation for dinner at The Observatory. Your notion of dinner with a view will change for ever. If you're the very sporty type, you can actually hike up to the top ... it's called the Grouse Grind. Now, it's literally like taking stairs 900m up. A vertical 2.9 km hike!! It's exhausting, but very rewarding.
> Yaletown: when I first moved to Vancouver, this was a derelict neighbourhood full of abandoned warehouses. Today, it's a swanky area with great restaurants, brick buildings, wonderful loft apartments and has been redeveloped into the hippest neighbourhood in Vancouver. And there are a lot of clubs here as well.
> Gastown: This is the historic part of Vancouver, where British explorer George Vancouver incorporated the city in 1886. Walking around this neighbourhood is like being in turn-of-the-century England. But beware, a few blocks East is the poorest part of Vancouver, where someone shooting up on the sidewalk is not that uncommon of a site.
> Cycling around sea wall: now that the sea wall has been completed you can literally ride from UBC, down Jericho Beach, to Kits, around False Creek and all around downtown including Stanley Park … which must be 40-50 km! So rent a bike and go for a great tour. This is the best way to see this great Canadian city … by being outdoors.
> Whistler: Whistler is only 110 km from Vancouver, and if you have a chance, you should go there. It used to be a small ski destination in the mid-80's, but has not turned into an all-year resort where you have some of the best skiing in the world and in the summer you can golf, mountain-bike, hike, enjoy spas, etc. And the drive to Whistler is one of the most beautiful drives you've ever seen.
> Victoria: again, depending how much time you have, but taking the float plane from Vancouver Harbour to Victoria is also a wonderful experience. It's a 45 minute flight and you can easily make it a day-trip. You will see Vancouver from a bird's eye perspective, perhaps spot a whale while crossing the Strait of Georgia and enjoy the very-British town of Victoria, which is actually the capital of British Columbia. And don't miss high-tea at the Empress Hotel!
> 2010 Winter Olympics: Vancouver will be hosting the 2010 Winter Olympic Games. The city is going through a massive transformation to be ready by then. I'm sure the games will be sensational!
RESTAURANTS
> Bridge's: with typical west-coast food, sitting here in the early evening, watching the sun set is divine. Located on Granville Island, this restaurant is a well-established eatery in Vancouver and is definitely worth the experience.
> Sylvia Hotel: before heading for a walk around Stanley Park, come for a typical breakfast at this landmark hotel, which was inaugurated in 1912. Since the whole sea-wall around Stanley Park is 11 km long, you will need a good fill of fresh orange juice, omelette and whole-wheat toast to get you energized.
> Crime Lab: located at the foot of Denman Street, in Coal Harbour, this is a fairly new restaurant. I had a great salmon here and the location is fab.
> Milestones grill and bar: this is a Vancouver institution. It's a chain of eateries ... and although some are not so glamorous, the one in Yaletown definitely is. Check it out! And don't forget to order a Belinni ... they're famous for this drink. Just don't have too many ... I warned you!!
> Yaletown Brewery: I had a Canadian moment on the out-door terrace of this great eatery in the centre of Yaletown. I was freezing, wearing sweaters and jackets, while Vancouverites were sitting next to me in T-shirts watching a Stanley Cup match. Yikes! Fantastic place to lounge around, drink beer and catch up with friends over a great casual meal.
> Blue Water cafe: this is where all the stars come to eat … and for a reason! The sea food is outstanding! Make sure you try the sea food platter which is delish.
> Provence Marinaside: Provencial cuisine overlooking False Creek
> La Terrazza: very little can compare to great Italian food!
> Ki Japanese Restaurant: a great modern interpretation of Japanese food, right next to the Shangri-La Hotel
WHERE TO SLEEP:
> Fairmont Hotel Vancouver: this Victorian style hotel in the centre of downtown was recently completely refurbished. Stay here for an old taste of colonial glamour.
> Sheraton Wall Centre Hotel: very centrally located hotel in two gleaming and very tall high-rises. It's a Sheraton ... enough said!
> Pan Pacific Hotel: this is one of THE hotels in Vancouver. This is where Princess Di and Prince Charles stayed during Expo 86. The rooms have incredible views of the mountains and you will be delightfully spoiled.
> Opus Hotel: if you're into boutique hotels, this one is supposedly very good and right in Yaletown. So, hip hotel in a hip locale!
> Shangri La Hotel: this newly opened 5-star hotel has got a terrific central location, right on the corner of Thurlow and Georgia street. You're within walking distance of shops, restaurants, offices and the park. The suites, albeit well decorated in recognizable Shang style, were on the very small side. However, all the great modern amenities were there. I really liked the unassuming ground street hotel entrance, which made it look more like entering a condo building rather than a hotel. The check-in is in the basement lobby, which is where the taxis drop you off. The main issue I have with this hotel is that the building was clearly designed as a condo, which gives the rooms very odd angular shapes, making the rooms rather small. The rooms also have no real views, given that the hotel occupies the first 16 floors of a newly built residential building. It's a shame, for if the hotel covered the top floors of the building, the views would have been stunning in all directions.
Bojan Tercon
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