Don't cry for me Argentina ... the truth is I never left you ...
This is the first thing I think of when you say Buenos Aires. I can already envision Evita - Madonna singing from the Casa Rosada.
BA is a beautiful city ... that is full of nostalgia, passion and drama. This is what happens when you move Italian blood from the motherland to South America!
Flying in from Rio, you can immediately see the differences. As we ate a quick lunch at the Park Hyatt hotel in BA, you could see that the people here are more refined, more cultured than in Brazil. That's what gives BA such a European flavour. Yes ... we Europeans are cultured and sophisticated ... ha, ha!
There really is something European about this city. You often hear that BA is the most European city in South America. You can see that in the architecture and large boulevards, outdoor cafes and sculptures in all the perfectly manicured miniature parks. But what is more interesting is that the portenos (people of BA) perceive themselves to be more European than South American. And even though that may be true on a relative scale, I often found that the Europe they are pining for and identify with, does not exist anymore. As a European, I found them recalling a Europe from the 30's, 40's ... from the time they immigrated ... a Europe that I don't recognize. Today, the large cities in Europe have become very multicultural due to the large influx of immigrants from other parts of the world. This has changed the cultural fabric for better or worse. The 'pure' Europe from the previous century is long gone. Thus watching the portenos immitate a forgone Europe with outfits and behaviour reflecting the 30's classical Italian/French chic was like watching a history documentary. And that's perhaps the charm of this beautiful city.
Of course when you think of BA and Argentina, tango has to come to mind. The drama and intensity of the dance ... is also what is reflected in the people. There is a strong passion and nostalgia in the air. Perhaps it stems from the immigrants who came here but who were eventually going to return back home to Europe when the economic times improved ... but never did. It nearly seems that the communal psyche is still preparing to go back to the motherland. Thus the nostalgia! And the resilience that the portenos display.
There is only one myth that I unfortunately have to disprove. I've always envisioned Argentineans to be dark and handsome. And I didn't see that. I was expecting that on average the men and women would be stunning in a dark way. Not beautiful, but handsome. And of course there are stunners as you walk down the street, but on average, the Argentineans seemed ... well ... average to me.
Perhaps I should go back again and give them another eye-over!
Read up more on BA from my subsequent trips to BA:
HOW TO GET THERE:
There are two major airports in BA. The International Airport de Ezeiza, which is quite far out of town, and the centrally located Aeropuerto Jorge Newberry, that serves primarily domestic routes and flights to some neighbouring countries.
Argentina does have a departure tax of US$18 ... the good thing is that you can pay with your credit card.
To discover Argentina, try their national airline Aerolineas Argentinas or the discount arm called Austral.
Something to observe as you land at the International Airport, or when you're driving into town, is the Villa Miseria ... the so called slums of BA. Akin to the favelas in Rio. Just the name evokes the characteristic drama ... city of misery!
WHAT TO DO:
> Carlos Gardel tango performance: there is no better way to understand Argentinean drama than to see them dance the tango. We booked a show at this venue, which included a dinner. The dinner was nothing to rave about but the tango performance blew me away. I got so emotional watching the dancers and listening to the songs. I got a direct hit of nostalgia ... I felt the anguish of all the immigrants that came to Argentina. I was totally moved.
> The Rojo Tango performance: for a modern interpretation of the tango, visit the Rojo Tango dinner show at Hotel Faena. The intimate cabaret style room along with the sensuous performance deeply involves you in the madness that is tango.
> Sant Elmo Antique Market: If you're looking for antique French furniture or kitschy chandeliers, this is the place to be. Actually, you'll find everything here ... from toys, to street performances, to art, to great food and wine stalls. Open on Sundays, this part of town is blocked from cars, so stroll along the cobblestone roads amidst the beautiful old buildings and enjoy your day.
> La Boca: located right by the harbour, this is ground zero for the tango. The neighbourhood is poor but very colourful. Tango dancers still twirl around the sidewalks ... although I assume it's all for the tourist dollar.
> Puerto Madero: this is a new part of town built around 4 old docks. There are many new commercial buildings and several great restaurants in the neighbourhood. A great place to end up in the evening.
> Casa Rosada: Hmm ... definitely The building I associate with BA ... yet was a bit of a disappointment. Not as grand as I would have imagined it. What was more interesting is to see the Madres de Plaza Mayo protesting every Thursday afternoon, something they've done for over three decades. They represent the mothers that 'mysteriously' lost their children during the dictatorship years.
> Recoletta cemetery: this is where Eva Peron, aka Evita, is buried. It's an aristocratic cemetery right in the city centre. I say aristocratic, for it is not for the mere-mortals. To get a grave in there requires a lot of money and political connections and a pedigree. The Duarto family has a very unimposing tomb, in a small alley towards the back on the left-hand side ... as you walk in. Some of the graves in Recoletta are very opulent and when you stroll through the cemetery in the late afternoon sun, the shadows cast a mysterious yet peaceful spell on you. Take a peek into some of the tombs. You will see shelves full of casts, with dead bodies in them ... I assume. Somewhat spooky. I also have to say that there is something equalizing when you see Evita's tomb. Despite her glamorous life, she ended up in a hole in the wall, just like everyone else. You kind of realize that we all end up in the same place. And mind the stray cats sleeping everywhere ... they are like the mysterious guardians of this beautiful resting place.
> Palermo Soho / Palermo Hollywood: two newly gentrified neighbourhoods that you need to walk around. Great shopping and great eating and great people watching. Start off with Plaza Serrano.
> Plaza Naciones Unidas: This park located behind the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes has a beautiful stainless steel flower sculpture called Floralis Generica. During the day it's open, and at night it closes. It's a masterpiece. And I had to laugh at the story that goes along with it. Supposedly the sculpture cost US$ 6 million. Well, several years after it was commissioned, it came to the public's knowledge that the actual statue cost US$1 million ... and the other 5 ... well ...
> Malba Museum: This museum is simply exceptional! As our guide put it, it's a small museum with a great collection. This private museum opened on the first day of spring, September 21, 2001, just prior to the political and economical crisis that was to hit Argentina, where the peso was greatly devalued. As you can imagine, hard times for all! Nevertheless, the collection its founder Constantini has amassed is impressive and gives a wonderful representation of Latin American art. Covering more than 200 pieces and collecting since the early 70's, for me the highlight was a Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera painting. I simply adore Frida! But I also discovered a new favorite, Argentinean Antonio Berni, with his two paintings titled 'Public Demonstration' and 'The Great Temptation'. The expressions in the eyes, the faces of the protesters and the surreal juxtaposition of an ideal women from the advertising world of the 60's with a hooker were dauntingly beautiful. Moreover, on the top floor there was a temporary exhibition of Cuban art, something quite rare.
> Tigre delta boat trips: some friends of ours rented a house in a small city on the outskirts of BA called Punta Chica for a couple of months. These are friends that we bump into all over the world ... and it's become a custom that every time we meet we have to do something unique with them. This time was no different. Taking a cab to Punta Chica, about 50 minutes from the city centre ... the first thing that shocked me was that if I hadn't known I was in BA I would have definitely thought I was in Europe. That's how convincing this city is! From Punta Chica we took the local train to the last station on this line called Delta. As we got off the train ... there he was ... this very charming Argentinean ... who was a talker. He cast his web around us and massaged us until we agreed to go with him on a boat trip of the Tigris delta. Boy ... we didn't regret it. What a fantastic afternoon that was. As soon as you enter the delta you realize you're not in Europe anymore ... but far away ... in a country with vast and beautiful nature. Just a few minutes by boat and you were surrounded by nature with no one around. We went down these beautiful small canals where the locals lived in small houses and tended to their daily tasks. After a while he stopped at a small house and told us this is where we're going to have lunch. WOW ... the food ... the wine ... and all so simple and understated. After the break he took us down some more canals till at one point it was just the vast sky, the trees ... and in the far distance the skyscrapers of BA. That's when you were reminded how close to a big metropolis you really were.
> San Antonio de Areco town: it would be a shame to come to Buenos Aires and not see some of the countryside, which is as part of the Argentinean image as the cosmopolitan life in BA. Driving to San Antonio de Areco, some 120 km outside of BA, you watch the landscape change from urban sprawl to the expansive plain-lands, the so called pampas. The rural land is rich in agriculture and cattle farming. And completely flat! This is where a lot of the immigrants settled in the 1880's and where a lot of blood was shed between the native Indians and white settlers. The history of the white colonialist and the native people is very similar to what happened in Australia, Canada and the US. And just as sad! We were also made aware how the countryside economics were historically accommodating to demands in Europe. If Europeans wanted cows, then cattle farming prevailed. When the Europeans demanded sheep and wool, suddenly sheep appeared in the pampas. The ties between Argentina and Europe have always been very close.
Of course we must not forget to mention the gaucho, who is closely linked to the pampas - a nomadic person that worked on farms, somewhat of a rebel, an outlaw. Not dissimilar to the American concept of cowboy.
San Antonio de Areco is a small, sleepy town, with a pretty square in the centre. Besides a few rustic restaurants and cafes and a small church, you will come across the Draghi Silversmith shop, a family run business with complete dedication and passion for excellence in their field. As the son was explaining to us how he creates buckles, urns and chalices out of solid silver, his dedication to quality and craftsmanship was inspiring. It was great to see that not every craft has become industrialized and commercialized.
> Estancia Flamenco (close to San Antonio de Areco): finally we get pulled back to the quintessential Argentinean pass-time … eating and drinking. To get to this ranch we had to drive for what seemed like kilometers down this dirt road. When we finally arrived and got out of the mini-bus … a vision … this long table, fully set-out, located in the midst of a beautiful lawn and big leafy trees. Prior to sitting down we were served these amazing home-made sausages, as well as salami, cheese and other appetizers. I was trying to control myself and not eat too much, for I already suspected what was to come. Not easy! Red wine in hand, we went exploring around and gravitated towards this barn from where a delicious smell was originating. As we open the door, there it was … a fire-pit with meat sizzling away. My mouth just watered!
And for the next several hours we sat around this table under the big blue sky and ate the most delicious pork and beef I've ever tasted. Add to that red wine, an assortment of fresh salads, dessert … and I was in heaven! I don't even know how I left the table. It was impossible to move. Do they eat like this every day? Before we left, in the late afternoon sun, we took a much needed stroll around the large ranch and came upon a lovely little chapel in a tree-lined drive-way, socialized with a wild horse that just came running to us, talked to the many cows roaming around, saw a week old horse and his beautiful mother and finally … met the four wildest pigs you've ever seen. Completely covered in dirt, with the father being the biggest and hairiest pig I've even seen. It soon came time to say good-bye to the host family who gave us an unforgettable and authentic experience. What a brilliant day!
HOTELS:
> Park Hyatt - Palacio Duhau: what a fantastic hotel! The front is an old palace while the back has been newly built. We had a suite overlooking the garden between the two buildings which was absolutely fantastic! The decor is modern yet subdued. Very understated and grand. And from our room we could see the palace next door, which belongs to the Vatican. This is where the pope stays when he's in town. I highly recommend the Park Hyatt ... you will have a spectacular experience.
> Hotel Esplendor: if you're looking for a fantastic boutique hotel, Esplendor it is. The rooms are large with very high ceilings and well appointed. They have lots of interesting art around the hallways, the most impressive one being right by the entrance ... a collage of Eva Peron done out of bread crumbs!
> Faena Hotel: located in the new and hip Puerto Madero barrio, this is an uber stylish Philippe Starck designed boutique hotel.
> Alvear Palace Hotel: a very stately and regal hotel. It's over the top old luxury ... if that is what you're into.
> Casasur Hotel: a small boutique hotel located in the beautiful neighbourhood of Recoleta. Each floor has 3 rooms, decorated in a very hip and modern design, with all the modern amenities you would require. Including my favourite, a Nespresso machine. The suites are wonderful - they have a very cozy homey feel to them. Unfortunately, the suites face the back of the building, so the little balcony faces into a small inner well. The good thing is that the design team came up with a very innovative idea on how to improve your limited view. They painted a photographic image of an Italian church tower, spanning all the 8 floors. So from your little balcony, you might as well be sitting on a small piazza in Bella Italia. Beware that the rooms can be noisy, due to the very thin walls.
> Park Tower Hotel (Starwood Luxury Collection): Located brilliantly next to Plaza Libertador, Park Tower is the Luxury Collection from Starwood, always located adjacent to Sheraton Hotels. The design is opulent, sophisticated and charming, and I just found out that Cindy Crawford, Bill & Hillary Clinton and Brad Pitt have all stayed here.
RESTAURANTS:
There is no shortage of fantastic restaurants in BA. There is nothing that can compete with Argentinean beef and their Medoc red wines accompany the meet perfectly. Your taste buds will be ignited in this wonderful city.
> La Brigada (Estados Unidos 465): this is one of my most memorable restaurant moments ever. A friend took us out for dinner here. Nothing special in terms of decor, very authentic, a place where locals come for a dinner with friends. We ordered steak and the waiter brought a huge slab on a tray. We were all looking going, what the heck are we going to do with that piece of meat? The waiter grabs a spoon and cuts the meat with the spoon into individual slices for us. The meat was so tender ... and so delicious ... and I will always treasure that moment.
> El Mirasol: this group has three restaurants in Buenos Aires. The one we went to was located on Posadas 1032, right under the bridge. Fantastic meat ... as you would expect in Argentina. Combine that with a deep and rich Medoc wine ... and you've reached heaven!
> Piegari Restaurant: this restaurant is located right next to the El Mirasol. We were here for lunch and the meal was delicious. Beware though, the portions are huge.
> Eh! Santino Restaurant (Baez 194): a sports bar type restaurant, Argentinean style! Very good food, great wine and a humongous screen to watch your football. If this restaurant is full, there are a ton of other restaurants in the vicinity. A hip neighbourhood ... and best of all, local!
> La Cabana: this Argentinean steakhouse located in the heart of the city is renowned for ... its mouth-watering steak! We started off the evening with some much needed wine tasting. A sommelier introduced three wines from the Salentein wine house, the vineyards which are located high up in the eastern slopes of the Andes. To be more precise a shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon and a blend. And they were all superb. And so was the dinner afterwards. I dare say that if you're a vegetarian, Argentina is the wrong place to be!
TRANSPORTATION:
> TAXI: if you need a reliable taxi driver while in Buenos Aires, call Carlos at 15 6465 0688 (if calling from abroad +54 911 6465 0688) or email him at zen_tido2001@yahoo.com.ar He drove me all around and made my moving around the city hassle-free.
Bojan Tercon
Dear Bojan!Soon some publishing company will throw you a contract for putting all this stuff on a book. What a marvellous and interesting flow of writing!
Posted by: Viviana Bernard | September 16, 2010 at 17:00
Your trip report is really complete, you haven't forget any detail. Here is another link that can be useful for travelers looking for authentic experiences and insider tips in English www.bsas4u.com
The only thing I see you didn't try is a football match, even if you are not a football fan, football, tango and beef are on the same level of cultural importance here!. Happy travels!
Posted by: Laura | May 01, 2010 at 03:49