Brazil - Rio de Janeiro

We came to Rio to go hang-gliding.  It was a wedding gift of ours ... and we were very excited to do this.  The way this idea came about is that the last few times we were in Rio, I often noticed hang-gliders flying around the cone-shaped hills surrounding the city.  It looked beautiful ... to be able to glide through the air in such a beautiful city.  Of course I had mentioned this to our friend Gina who lives in Rio ... and so she decided to gift us this experience.  Brilliant gift :-)

Unfortunately, it didn't happen.  The weather was shite!  On a good note, this means that we have to come back to Rio.  There could hardly be a worse place to return too ... right?

It's funny though that out of the three experiential wedding gifts that we received, we weren't able to do any of them this summer.  For one reason or another, all three got cancelled.  Our boat trip to Corsica was postponed, our 1000m sky-dive above the Slovenian alps got cancelled because I had to go to Jakarta, and now the Rio hang-gliding experience ... cancelled due to bad weather.  For some reason or another, it wasn't meant to happen this year!

Rio, rightfully so, is one of the most beautiful cities in this world.  There's just something magical about this place.  It's not architecturally stunning ... actually, the architecture is quite grim.  You can really notice that on a gloomy day.  However, the physical location of the city is stunning and the energy this city emits is sexy, hot and vibrant.  When you walk down the street, the way the Brazilians move, the way they look at you, you can't help but feel beautiful yourself.

I just start singing when I hear the word Brazil ... 'Bra-zil, la, la, la, la, la la' ... you know which song I mean :-)

This is the only large city I've been too, where people living close to the beach walk down the streets in their bathing suits.  It's perfect for me!  I've always said that I could live my whole life in a bathing suit.  Actually, this reminds me of my first year when I moved to Vancouver.  I was 18 and heading home from the beach ... in my bathing suit.  I walked down the street in my Speedos and into a Starbucks.  I will never forget the stairs I received when they saw me.  I never did it again.  You see ... I would be much more at home in Rio :-)

What I also love about Rio is that the beautiful beaches are right in the city.  You don't have to drive anywhere ... you just step out of your hotel, cross the street and voila.  You're there!  The cariocas, as the locals calls themselves, are of course also an integral part of Rio's sexiness.  They are full of emotions, ooze sex-appeal and are very expressive.  It seems like not a worry is on their mind.  Just look at samba ... it's a positive, energetic, shake your booty type music.  That's how the cariocas are.  Moreover, listening to them speak Portugese is divine.  All the sh's and ch's that role off their tongue ... makes my knees go weak.

As you can see ... I love Rio ... and I think you will too.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Actually, most international airlines fly to Sao Paulo, Brazil's largest city and economic powerhouse and not Rio.  So, more likely than not, you will have to transfer from Sao Paulo.

Rio has two airports.  The smaller Aeroporto Santos Dumont, which is located close to the city centre and primarily caters to the Rio - Sao Paulo route (so called air bridge), and the international airport Aeroporto Internacional Tom Jobin.  So check which airport you're flying from.

Brazil has several airlines.  For international flights TAM is excellent, while Varig, I hear, is so-so.  For domestic flights try GOL.

DRIVING FROM SAO PAULO TO RIO DE JANEIRO:

I always like taking different routes to a place that I've already been to.  So this time around we decided to drive from Sao Paulo to Rio.  It was a long drive ... approx 500 km and it took us 9 hours ... although we did stop for a 90 minute lunch.  But it was worth it for the route is very scenic.

I recommend that you leave Sao Paulo earlier than at noon, which is when we left.  First, the route is more scenic during daylight :-) ... and second, by the time you get close to Rio, you will have already been driving for many hours and frankly, I was exhausted.  So driving tired and in the dark, with most cars driving with their high beams on and the road having terrible signage, was not necessarily fun.

A modern highway (BR116) connects these two cities, and the whole trip can be done in 4 hours they say.  However, we decided to veer off the main highway and take the more scenic route down the coast.  When on BR116, look for signs pointing to Sao Sebastiao, which is a city on the coast.  The drive through the hills and the steep descent to the coast is fantastic.  Superb views!  Before you reach Sao Sebastiao, start looking for signs heading to Ubatuba ... which is where you need to go.  And from then it's just a 'straight' line down the coast.  First to Paraty, then Angra and then towards Rio.  The coastal road that we took is BR101.

BR101 is of course not as in great condition as Highway BR116 and it also has in most places only two lanes.  The most annoying part of this drive were all the speed bumps that you would find in the cities.  You literally had to come to a stand-still when you went over them ... over and over and over again!  Nevertheless, overall it was quite an easy drive.  And did I mention stunning vistas?  The whole coast south of Rio is extremely lush, full of hills and beautiful beaches.  To me it actually looked a lot like Rio, sans the highrises of course. 

For lunch, stop at one of the many pousada's on the way.  These are small hotels, often on the beach, with great food.  We stopped at Pousada Maranduba just outside of Ubatuba.  The restaurant at the back of the property, close to the beach, was exquisite.  Tastefully appointed and delicious food!  Make sure you try Guarana Antarctica, a local soft drink, and the Moqueca ... fish and shrimp stew prepared in a clay pot with rice.  And the coffee in Brazil is always outstanding.  Dark and rich ... just like its inhabitants :-)

WHERE TO GO:

> Corcovado:  one of the most recognizable features of the city is the statue of Jesus, perched 710 m high above Rio.  It is truly amazing for wherever you are in Rio, you will always see it.  It's as if Jesus is keeping an eye over you!  And the view from up there is to die for!  Although you can get there by car, it's more scenic to take the open-sided train from the station at Cosme Velho.  Make sure to sit on the left-hand side.

> Sugar Loaf Hill (Pao de Acucar):  this is the other famous landmark.  It's actually two separate hills connected with a cable car.  From the Sugar Loaf, you will have a 360 unobstructed view of Rio.  There's no real way to describe this view!

> Copacabana and Ipanema beaches:  you cannot leave Rio without having gone to these two beaches.  Stunning backdrop, beautiful bodies, full of sexy energy ... simply paradise!  Copacabana is known for being more of a retirement community, while Ipanema is young and hip.  Try both though.

> Favelas:  this is a very interesting phenomena in Rio.  It's basically shanty towns that have popped up in various areas around Rio, very visibly portraying the problems that this city has.  As far as I understand, it started with country-folk moving into the city to find a job, but since there was no well-priced accommodation for them (bad urban planning!) they started building these make-shift homes.  At the beginning the government closed an eye to this problem, but as the favelas grew, organized crime became and issue, drug lords moved in and by then the problem got out of control.  Today, you can see several of them perched on various hills around Rio.  I always joke that they have the best real-estate in town ... for the views that they must have of this city are definitely worth a million bucks.  They're no doubt dangerous places and often make front-page news given the many scuffles between the police and the drug lords.  However, if you have a chance, take a tour of one of the favelas.  Make sure you go with a reputable and organized group.  We went there a few years ago and it was a very memorable and shocking experience.  Walking past 12 year old kids with massive machine guns in their hands, eyeing you up and down as you pass a check-point ... felt freaky!  It's a visible symbol of everything that went wrong in Rio's development and it will be interesting to see how the government plans to tackle this problem.

> beaches south-west of Rio:  this city is really all about strolling around half-naked, baking in the sun and showing yourself off as you run for the water.  Once you've done Copacabana and Ipanema, head south-west of the city.  A 90 minute drive will get you to to some pristine beaches which are much less crowded than the ones of Rio.

> Niteroi:  the only true way to really appreciate the beauty of Rio, is to see it from across the bay, from Niteroi.  You can either take a ferry to Niteroi from Centro, or cross the bay by taxi or shuttle, via the bridge Ponte Rio - Niteroi.  You can easily go there for the day.  There are several wonderful beaches around Niteroi and when evening drops upon you, enjoy a great dinner on the main street by the beach.  The famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer built one of his masterpieces, the Contemporary Art Museum, which looks like a futuristic flying saucer.  The museum is not that interesting per se, but the building is a masterpiece and very photogenic.

> Ilha Grande:  if you have an extra day, go visit Ilha Grande about 180 km south-west of Rio.  It's about a 2-hour bus trip to get there, after which you board a boat and sail off to the island.  It's a beautifully relaxing day where you swim, eat, nap and don't do much more than that.  Ask at your hotel for tickets for they will be able to sell you a day-package to go there.

WHERE TO EAT:

> Cafeina:  a fantastic place to have breakfast!  The one we kept going to is located in Ipanema, a block away from the Ipanema Plaza Hotel where we were staying.  They've got great pastries for breakfast and tasty lunches.  Very casual and very good.

> fresh juices:  you will find juice stalls on nearly every corner in Ipanema and they serve juices that are fresh and delicious ... and cheap!  A great way to re-energize throughout the day.

> local markets:  go to a typical food stall at the many local markets around.  We tried something called 'can't remember anymore' ... it was fried, with a bean paste and shrimps on top.  It was a weird looking concoction but tasted good.  You even ate the whole shrimp without pealing it!  Be courageous, point with your finger at something you would like to try and a lady dressed in traditional garbs will fill your plate up :-)

> Churrascarias:  a typically Brazilian experience.  You better be a meat lover if you go to one of these!  Basically, waiters keep swinging by your table with knives and a skewer with pork, beef, lamb, chicken, etc on it.  If you like the meat you see, you indicate it and the waiter will slice pieces onto your plate.  The meat is superb!

> coffee:  I'm a coffee lover and Brazil has some of the best coffee as far as I'm concerned.  Dark, strong and full of body ... just like the Brazilians :-)

HOTELS:

Don't be overly obsessed about the quality of your hotel in Rio, for it's something that is very hard to find.  What's more important is location.

> Ipanema Plaza Hotel Hotel:  the main asset of this hotel is definitely its location.  Just a block from Ipanema beach, you're in the centre of it all.  The beach is right next door ... cafes, restaurants and clubs all around.  The hotel per se is old.  The rooms have low ceilings and it's all a bit drab.  But then again ... you're in Rio ... and you're not going to be sitting in your hotel room.  So location, location, location ... and this hotel has it.

> Sofitel Copacabana Hotel:  If you want Copacabana, then this is your hotel.  I love this hotel for it's right on the tip between Copacabana and Ipanema, right next to the fort.  And from your hotel room, as you lift your head up from your pillow, you will awaken to a stunning view of the whole Copacabana beach in front of you.  To die for!  Again, this hotel is not up to Sofitel standards, but the view and location is nothing less than amazing.

> Fasano Hotel:  as we were strolling down Ipanema, we saw this design looking hotel.  And of course it was ... designed by Philippe Starck!  Brilliant location overlooking the beach, very hip ... something to try next time.

> Copacabana Palace Hotel:  this is the grande dame of Rio, located right in the middle of Copacabana.  This is where royalty and rock stars stay.  Somewhat stuffy and not very well located, if you want to be able to walk around.

> InterContinental Hotel:  This hotel is in Sao Conrado, which is the next beach west of Ipanema / Leblon.  The hotel is also tired looking, but has a great pool area.  This is where I sat by the pool watching hang-gliders fly around the surrounding hills ... and got inspired.  The downside is that you're not where it's all happening, that is Ipanema ... so everything is a taxi ride away.

> Sheraton Barra Hotel:  This hotel is even further West than the Interconti, and thus even more isolated.  The location is quite spectacular though, for it's right on a cliff by the beach.  The odd thing ... a favella rises up the hill right behind it.  The juxtaposition of wealth and poverty is quite striking!

SECURITY:

Every time we go to Rio, someone will say to me 'be careful'.  Of course, security is an issue in this city.  There are often well publicized battles between the police and the drug lords living in the favellas.  Muggings and killings are not that uncommon.  I feel, however, that with a little bit of common sense you will be OK.  Be prudent is what I say!  Don't walk around with expensive bling, flashing new mobile phones and fancy cameras.  Basically, don't look conspicuous.

Since we rented a car, we got an additional piece of advice which even the locals practice.  When driving around late at night/early in the morning one does not stop at red lights.  You basically slow done, look around, and continue through the intersection.  Muggings are possible, so you do not want to be stopping at a deserted intersection at 3 am!

So practice common sense, be prudent and everything will be OK!

Bojan Tercon

Comments

[Rio Brazil Flights]

I got the same advice! After sundown all red lights become PINK.